Rolling hills of wheat stretched as far as we could see. Not a single tree broke the curve of the horizon. No shade here from the heat of a windless day. But it was beautiful, and I was happy. We could have been trekking through the wheat fields of central Oregon, an outing from the farm in The Dalles where my husband grew up. Instead, this walk had taken us to northern Spain. Many pilgrims on the popular Camino de Santiago pilgrimage trail dislike this section. The vast dist